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North London, England

December 10, 2008 City Guides, Features 3 Comments
Camden Market

Camden Market

Looking for something to do? Happen to be in England’s great capital? Well, in that case, head north of the river, ladies and gentlemen, to discover more than you could have ever bargained for. Whether you fancy a quiet nibble on some top quality nosh, a good old knees up watching your new favourite unsigned band or the perfect excuse to spend your hard-earned cash on the high street, North London just can’t fail.


Before getting into the meat of this city guide sandwich, let’s concentrate on the greener side of things. London can be a daunting place for anybody, so relaxing in a wide open space once in a while is a real must. North London is home to some gorgeous parks, with Clissold Park in Stoke Newington and Regents Park in Camden being prime examples of places you can enjoy the pure delights of grass stains and wildlife – Clissold has some cute goats and a butterfly tunnel, while Regents Park trumps everything with London Zoo, the perfect way to get away from the hustle and smoke.

They say that the most important meal of the day is breakfast. While there are plenty of sumptuous cafés to enjoy around the place, the most notable must be the wonderfully titled S&M Café. Located opposite Islington Green, in the heart of the bustling Angel, S&M (Sausage & Mash) was made famous for appearing in the cult film classic Quadrophenia, while it was known as Alfredo’s. Re-furbished and re-named in recent years, its art deco style and friendly service (not unlike them to take your mobile number and call you as soon as a table is free) is the perfect accompaniment to your ideal start to the day.

While in the area, check out the local shopping opportunities at the N1 Centre, which includes the likes of Borders, HMV, L’Occitane, Gap and French Connection. Meanwhile, a welcome change of pace can be found at the weekend antiques market. Lining the tiny corridors surrounding Camden Passage, the various stalls and shops boast cute trinkets and retro goodies of all shapes and sizes. You never know when you may come across those yellow leather ankle boots you’ve always hankered for! Or even those ones that you never knew you always wanted!? After all, the real beauty of any good market is the element of surprise.

If all of this harking back to a by-gone era business is making you feel a little dizzy, head up to Harringay, Green Lanes to discover an entirely different experience all together. Often known as “Little Istanbul” for its predominantly Turkish community and culture, this part of town can’t be overlooked. For delicious fresh bread, cream cakes, lahmacun (Turkish “pizza”), baklava (at a very good price) and other groceries, including an outstanding array of olives, look for Yasar Halim on the main road. This supermarket is world-renowned; a gem surrounded by some superb restaurants, all of which providing great food at affordable prices.

In terms of your music fix in North London, you are well and truly spoilt for choice. Camden Town is one of the most prolific places for live music in the world. Up on Parkway you have Dublin Castle, where you are guaranteed to hear at least one band you have never heard every night of the week. There are very few big British bands that haven’t played here, so get your Alan McGee hat on and spot the next big thing. The Barfly isn’t far away and often provides the last chance to get up close and personal with the bands that are destined to never play such a small venue again. Camden Town is a thriving area that has bounced back stronger than ever from a fire that threatened to erase much of its character and history. The shopping isn’t too shabby either, be it a glow stick, Led Zeppelin T-shirt or an antique rug that catches your eye.

To appreciate the diversity of North London’s music venues, also be sure look out for anything that is on at Union Chapel, an old church that can be found hidden behind some greenery at the Highbury Corner end of Upper Street. The brilliant acoustics of this grand, yet slightly odd setting have played host to the likes of Beck and Jose Gonzales in recent times, with more and more acts taking the opportunity to visit their spiritual side as time goes by. A nice little secret this part of the city has to offer anybody willing to look closer.

If all this excitement leaves you yearning for a slap-up meal that hits the right spot, there are few places that can compete with Upper Street (quite a street it is), running all the way up between Angel and Highbury & Islington tube stations. Amazing South American dishes with a vibrant, authentic atmosphere (La Piragua, Cuba Libre) are combined with Italian elegance and sophistication (La Porchetta) and French finery (Le Mercury, La Petite Auberge) to provide an incredible level of choice. Meanwhile, Fishworks Seafood Café is fast becoming one of North London’s best-kept secrets. Lobster, prawns, octopus and shark are all regulars on the lavishly tempting menu – not the cheapest place to go but somewhere that brings ocean life a little closer to the concrete jungle, in remarkable fashion.

Currently there are "3 comments" on this Article:

  1. Nicky says:

    North London beats South London hands down!

  2. Gary says:

    Hi. We visited Angel when my daughter studied at London Met. Univ. It was a wonderful experience, and, as you note, great restaurants, shops, and people! Londoners are lucky to still have any CD stores to browse in…here in NYC everything is closed…Virgin Megastore in Times Square will soon close!…I loved the HMV and Borders in the N1!!! “Discovered” Bloc Party and The Kooks…oh well, for an old guy they sounded interesting to me! Also bought several reissues…glad London folk appreciate their excellent pop, folk, and rock history…the stores were so fully stocked! Not so in NYC!…Mr. Clancy’s post reminds me of a great visit to North London.
    Very concerned about youth and street crime in London…was saddened to read about horrific stabbings on buses and so forth…still continuing…we are lucky that street crime has decreased in NYC…I wish your wonderful city well…and hope crime decreases and the creativity, energy, honesty and brilliance of the community comes to the fore. I know its more complicated than that, though. Best, Gary/NYC

  3. Daniel Clancy says:

    Thanks for your comment Gary,

    Yes, we are lucky in many ways in London but are suffering the same closures, with Virgin on Oxford Street long gone and great stores like Fopp falling too… Lots of nice independent record shops going though and Angel remains as you left it I believe.

    I studied at London Met myself. Being from around the area it was nice to stay amongst what I know and love and, although street crime is getting way out of hand (got a spare Mayor by any chance NYC?), I still manage to get the most out of the place.

    Thanks again and please come back! We need the positive energy!

    Daniel x

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